It is a cool and crisp February morning at the Kumbhalgarh Fort.
The mild warmth of the winter sun and a gentle breeze make it the perfect weather for exploring it, and the mesmerising panoramic vista tempts me to stop now and then and admire the view. The blue haze of the distant mountain ranges, birdsong and the ringing of bells from the various temples within the Fort complex adds to the general sense of peace and calm all around.
Though there is some activity in the settlement below and few early bird tourists like me, it feels like the Kumbhalgarh Fort is all mine, and only mine, to explore. As I stop at one point to look at the view once again, I recall how different the Fort looked the previous evening, when I attended the sound and light show.
The sun was setting when I had arrived at the Kumbhalgarh Fort. I had just enough time to buy the ticket, reach the venue, find a seat and switch off my mobile, when the show began with the rather clichéd, but oh-so-effective, voice-over saying, “Main Kumbhalgarh hoon” [I am Kumbhalgarh], setting the tone for the narration of the story of Kumbhalgarh Fort.
Centuries ago, Kumbhalgarh Fort was the site of another fort known as Macchindragarh, which was supposed to have been built by Prince Samprati, a descendent of Emperor Asoka, in 2nd Century BC. Little else is known of Macchindragarh beyond this and for centuries after its construction it is unclear as to what happened there. One can take a simple guess of kings coming and going, some successions painless and bloody. If there were any extraordinary rulers or events, there is sketchy or no information on them.
And then came the reign of Rana Kumbha of Mewar (1443-1468 CE). Rana Kumbha is credited with having built 32 forts, Kumbhalgarh Fort being one of them.There were many hurdles in the construction of the Fort and it is believed that the Rana almost gave up the idea of building it. Till, one day, a holy man came to him and declared that the Fort could not be built until there was a human sacrifice — his own.
Before his beheading, the holy man gave explicit instructions as to where the entrance to the Fort was to be located, where its various gates were to be built, where the living quarters, stables, armoury, etc were to be, and so on. One of the instructions was the location of the entrance to the Palace Complex, which was to be built on the spot where his head landed !
Kumbhalgarh Fort took 15 years to be built and is considered to be one of the finest forts in the country today. It remains a fort that has been laid siege to, but never conquered. [Perhaps it is for this reason that Udai Singh II, heir to the throne of Mewar and founder of the city of Udaipur sought and was given protection here. Many years later, his son, Maharana Pratap was born in the Fort.] Seven huge and imposing gates protect the Fort as does its 38 km wall, which is considered to be the second longest wall in the world [some accounts put the length of the wall at only 15 km].
It was a full moon night and when the 45-minute sound and light show finished, all lights were switched off for a minute to reveal a magical world bathed in shimmering, silvery moonlight. It was one that made me want to explore Kumbhalgarh Fort right away ! But that remained wishful thinking as the security guards politely ushered us out telling us to come back the next morning.
Next morning, after an early breakfast, I decide to walk the 2 km to the Fort. The leisurely walk turns out to be a good decision as I see a variety of plants, birds and rocks. And that first sight of the Fort in the morning light from the road…
It is a little after 8 am when I arrive at the first of the gates to Kumbhalgarh Fort, just in time to say a quick hello and a bye to a herd of buffaloes as they set off for their day’s grazing. 🙂
I buy my ticket (an unbelievable Rs.5/-) and begin the climb to the top of the Fort. As I climb higher, the expanse of the Fort is revealed as is its setting among the Aravalli mountain ranges. It’s famous fortified wall can be seen meandering away into the distance like a river of stone and disappearing from view over a rise, only to reappear some distance away, and disappear yet again. Temple spires, domed structures (probably chhatris or cenotaphs), a village settlement, and other indistinguishable structures can be seen in the distance.
I spend a wonderful couple of hours within the Palace Complex, with its shrines, empty stables, painted walls, staircases leading into spooky and dank passages, windy terraces, breathtaking views, echoing rooms… Presenting some captures from the time spent there:
Kumbhalgarh Fort is one of those places that appear to be suspended between here and there. Not entirely empty of inhabitants, yet desolate. Desolate, but not neglected. Not neglected, yet forgotten. Forgotten by all, but the most persistent tourists or those breaking their journey on the way to more exciting places like Jodhpur or Udaipur.
Kumbhalgarh Fort appealed to me like no other — architecture, history, desolation, expanse, setting… everything. I wish I had got the time to spend more time to explore the Fort beyond the Palace Complex and visit some of the temples, the wells and the dam. And walk along the Fort wall. Not the whole length, mind you, just a little bit.
I want to go visit Kumbhalgarh Fort again, but don’t know when that’ll be. Till then, it is this image of the Fort that will keep me working towards that wish 😀
======================
Forts of Rajasthan Series
- Forts of Rajasthan – 1: The Junagarh Fort of Bikaner
- Forts of Rajasthan – 2: The golden fort of Jaisalmer
- Forts of Rajasthan – 3: Mehrangarh Fort of Jodhpur
- Forts of Rajasthan – 5: Chittorgarh Fort
- Forts of Rajasthan – 6: The Gagron Fort of Jhalawar
My Favourite Things 
Amazingly beautiful pics. I have gained lotsa insight about the history::)
LikeLike
Thanks, Vishal. Glad you like the post. 🙂
LikeLike
Excellent article! Lots of info.
http://rajniranjandas.blogspot.in
LikeLike
Thanks, Niranjan. Hope this inspires you into visiting Kumbhalgarh 🙂
LikeLike
wonderful!!! that last pic is great!!! brought back some wonderful memories. btw, did you go on a safari into the wildlife sanctuary behind the fort? the fort view from there is beautiful too.
LikeLike
Thanks, Anu. I had time for either a safari or an exploration of the Fort and you know what I chose 🙂
LikeLike
Lovely post, yet again. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it! 🙂
The pic of the temple silhoutted against the sunset is brilliant. And I can’t over the gorgeous, gorgeous blue of the sky in some of the pics!
LikeLike
Thank you very much, TGND 🙂 The gorgeous blue sky is for real and a wee bit enhanced due to the auto contrast mode in Picasa that I use for all my photographs. Kumbhalgarh had the bluest skies I saw in Rajasthan – maybe it was the mountain air and lack of pollution that made it so blue 🙂
LikeLike
Lovely pics, nice writing !!
LikeLike
Woohoo 🙂 Look who’s here. A very warm welcome, Milind, and thank you so for your warm comments and appreciation 🙂
LikeLike
Very well written Sudha. Also, very thought provoking. The willingness of the holy man to offer himself as a sacrifice. Ever since you narrated this to me, I have wondered at the man’s convictions and philosophy………Was it a way of getting immortalised forever? Or, was it a deep – rooted regard for his king and God? Or, a combination of both. My head is full of questions…
The grandeur of the fort and its palaces and temples are captured beautifully in your photographs. My Rajasthan trip is yet to take off and you keep tempting me with your wonderful posts!!
LikeLike
Thanks, Neena. I don’t know if the human sacrifice was really willing to give up his life or whether it was forced. It is wuite possible that there was no human sacrifice and this is only a local legend. True or false, it definitely is a fascinating one.sn’t it?
After visiting so many Forts in Rajasthan, I can confidently and unabashedly say that Kumbhalgarh is my favourite. I loved it 🙂
LikeLike
oh the last picture is breathtaking!
LikeLike
The full moon was unbelievable and I was just lucky to be there at the right place and right time as well. (Psst. Hope you didn’t notice that the last pic is also terribly out of focus)
LikeLike
Thanks for sharing this picturesque and informative post Sudhagee, now you know where I want to ride next 🙂
LikeLike
Punit, this is a perfect place to ride to as well. Saw quite a few bikers doing the Aravalli route during my trip. 🙂 And do go on a full moon if you can manage it; it is an unbelievable sight.
LikeLike
Okay, will try to plan accordingly 🙂 thanks for the advise…
LikeLike
You’re welcome 🙂
LikeLike
Beautiful. Descriptive text. Got an opportunity to visit this complex but unfortunately it was an organised trip back then.
LikeLike
Welcome here, Satyender and thank you so much for stopping by and commenting. Very happy that you liked the post. I was also part of an organised tour, and there was the option of seeing the Kumbhalgarh National Park or the Fort. Though I chose the latter, I couldn’t see as much as I wanted to and we had to leave for Udaipur as well !
LikeLike
I have good memories of this place. 🙂
I am so glad it is now included in UNESCO World Heritage sites.
LikeLike
So am I, though I wonder why Mehrangarh was not included in the list.
LikeLike
Great post about Rajasthan forts and thanks for the woww images.
LikeLike
Welcome here, Tyanajones. Thank you so much for stopping by and commenting. Glad you liked the post and the pictures. Do keep visiting 🙂
LikeLike
one of my favourite forts thanks we are happy to have revisited
LikeLike
Thanks, Arnavaz. Kumbhalgarh IS my favourite fort 🙂
LikeLike
wow!! very nice pics and really i cant imagine.. its very beautiful place.
LikeLike
Yes, the Kumbhalgarh Fort is really beautiful and grand and till one sees it for oneself, it cannot be imagined. Thank you for stopping by and commenting, Shiya. Glad you liked the pictures.
LikeLike
Sudha, this post comes at a very ill-suited time. I am dying to go on a vacation and this travelogue is to die for as well! Fabulous pictures and fabulous ride through time.
P.S.: I love the header!
LikeLike
Thank you, Deboshree. I hate to tell you this but Rajasthan in this season is quite beautiful, having just come back from Jaisalmer, and since it is off season it is not even crowded. This is the best time to visit the Marwar region of this state. And try and take a short break if you can – Jaisalmer and Bikaner are doable over the weekend from Delhi 🙂
LikeLike