Itchan Kala: The inner fortress of Khiva

There are places that leave an impression on you after you have visited it. And then there are places which leave an impression on you even before you have visited it. Like Itchan Kala, the inner, fortified town of Khiva, an ancient city on the Silk Route in Central Asia. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Itchan Kala was the first of the sites to be inscribed in the list from Uzbekistan in 1990.

I came across Khiva and Itchan Kala, while researching on places to visit in Uzbekistan. While the photographs of Itchan Kala were uniformly breathtaking, not to mention tempting enough make me want to pack my bags and head there immediately, the descriptions were varied and the reactions mixed — a living fortress, a perfectly preserved medieval fortress, a fort museum, a museum city, former hub of slave trade, lifeless and artificial, a film set, a somewhere else place, over renovated and restored, lifeless, touristy… I found the multitude of opinions and impressions about Itchan Kala even more enticing than the pictures, and couldn’t wait to visit it for myself.

The sun was setting when I arrived on a September day in 2015 in the rather nondescript city of Khiva. It had been a long day of travel from Nukus, exploring the scattered ruins of Khorezem along the way. As my car wove in and out of twisting roads, I kept a lookout for the walled town, already familiar from the numerous pictures I had seen online.

And then, as we drove through a market, the mud walls of a fortress suddenly loomed up. It was the Itchan Kala. I barely had time to recover from that first sight before the car entered the fortress through a gate and stopped outside my hotel. As soon as the registration formalities were completed, I set out to explore the place.

As I walked around the narrow alleys and passed minarets and domed structures, I was almost transported to another era, another time. I say almost because there were other tourists around and Hindi film songs blaring from a souvenir shop (I kid you not !).

It was a leisurely stroll and though I couldn’t see much in the dying light, the interesting silhouettes hinted at exciting discoveries the next day.

The guided walk of the Itchan Kala began near a tiled map of the fortress. Located near the Mohammad Amin Khan Madrassah, the map helped in understanding the layout and spread of the fortress, and also orient oneself to the various monuments located within.

Inessa, my guide and also a local Khivan, was everything that one hopes for in a guide. Though I had read up on Khiva’s history prior to my visit, it was more like events on a timeline. Through human and cultural connections narrated as stories, legends, and local gossip, Inessa brought the historical timeline of Khiva alive.

According to local legend, the city was founded by Shem, son of Noah, who marked out the city’s walls. Archaeological evidence, however, suggests that Khiva has been continuously inhabited only for the last 2500 years old. In its long history, Khiva has seen multiple raids/ invasions/ incursions. Notable among them were the Achaemenids (400 BCE), the Arab forces, who incorporated Khiva into the Samanid Empire (800 CE); Genghis Khan (1220–21), and Nadir Shah of Persia (1727). With the coming of the Arabs, the region’s religion changed from Zoroastrianism to Islam, a process which took a few centuries. This also allowed for many of Zoroastrian elements to remain in Khivan art and architecture, as you will see later on in this post

In between all the invasions, Khiva (and the Khorezem region) flourished. Between the 9th and the 12th centuries, Khiva was an important educational centre for mathematics, astronomy, philosophy, chemistry and medicine. It was also a hub for spiritual and religious studies. It was the time when Al-Khwaresmi and Al-Biruni (who wrote a book on India) lived; their works form part of the world’s cultural and scientific heritage today.

But Khiva’s everlasting notoriety was its association with slave trade in the region. Due to its prime location on the silk route, Khiva was where various routes branched off from.  For centuries, Khiva made its fortune from looting or taxing caravans and confiscating goods and humans as well.

Though this was very lucrative for the Khivans, it ultimately drew the attention of the Russians who attempted to invade Khiva thrice. Their first two attempts in 1717 (for Khorezmian gold and to explore a maritime route to India), and in 1840 (to put an end to the slave trade) were in vain. It was third time lucky for the Russians when they finally took over Khiva in 1873. Under their rule, Khiva was promoted to a Soviet Republic in 1922 and incorporated into the Uzbek SSR in 1924. In the decades to come, the Russians played a major part in Itchan Kala’s restoration and preservation.

Mohammed Rakhim Khan was the ruler when the Russians conquered Khiva in 1873 and made him their vassal. Rakhim Khan’s highly respected and trusted Vizier was Islom Hodja (left), a progressive thinker, committed to modernising Khiva. He built the city’s first hospital, its first secular school (which also admitted girls), a post office, and also laid the first railway line (but did not see it being completed). Islam Hodja’s dream of Khiva being connected to the world by telegraph also remained unfilled. He also built the tallest minaret in Khiva — a 57 m tall minaret named after him. I had a direct view of this minaret from my hotel room. 🙂

With its ‘collection’ and concentration of mausoleums, madrassahs, mosques, minarets and palaces — Kunya Ark, Tash Khauli Palace, Mohammad Amin Khan Madrassah, Djuma Mosque, Sheikh Sayd Allauddin’s Mausoleum, Pakhlawan Mahmoud’s Mausoleum — the Itchan Kala is quite a unique site. Most of the structures at the Itchan Kala were built in the 18th and 19th centuries or were overzealously restored and renovated by the Russians. They did this by shifting almost the entire local population out of the fortress. Even today, except for a few local households, which run B&Bs and souvenir stalls, most of the locals live outside the walls of the Itchan Kala.

As Inessa led me through the monuments in Itchan Kala, I noticed a pattern. All the structures were a uniform, mud brick colour that literally blended into one another. To be honest, they weren’t particularly remarkable either. The interiors were a completely different story. I lost count of the number of times I walked through a narrow corridor and entered a courtyard, only to stop in my tracks and stare. And stare once again, after I had started breathing again.

Join me on a short tour of the major sights of Itchan Kala. Clicking on any of the photographs below will open a slide show. You can then use the left or right arrow keys to navigate through the 28 photographs and read the accompanying captions.

A narrow street inside the Itchan Kala

The Islom Hodja Minar stands silhouetted against the evening sky

Reaching to the skies… The Islam Hodja Minar stands tall at 57 m. Built in 1908-1910, the minaret is characterised by bands of blue, dark blue, turquoise and white tiles that alternate with brick work.

The unfinished or incomplete Kalta Minar is the only structure in the Itchan Kala whose surface is entirely covered with glazed tiles and majolica. The minaret was supposed to rise to a height of 80-90 m, but was left incomplete at 29 m !

The Mohammad Amin Khan Madrassah was not just the biggest in Khiva, but in the whole of Central Asia. It was built between 1851-1854 by Mohammad Amin Khan. This madrassah is now a hotel. Note the Kalta Minar on the left.

A balcony connects the two sides of the madrassah — a unique architectural feature. Don’t miss the beautiful tile work on the facade and under the balcony arch.

The square near the entrance to the Kunya Ark or the citadel. Previously, this was used for military parades, battle training, and public executions. These days it is place for souvenir stalls, open air music performances and dining.

Another view of the square outside the Kunya Ark, which was the citadel for the Khan or the ruler of Khiva. It is a city within a city and comprises a reception hall, a summer and winter mosque, harem, mint, stables, workshops, etc.

The Kurinishkhona or reception area of the Kunya Ark. A yurt would be set up on the circular platform and the Khan would receive important dignitaries here.

A closer look tile work on one of the walls in the Kurinishkhona. Look carefully at the paisley patterned tiles at the bottom. One might think that they are the older tiles and brighter coloured tiles higher up the wall are the newer ones. Actually, the reverse is true for during restoration and renovation work carried out, it was discovered that the centuries old method to make create pure white had been lost and only a yellowish white could be produced !

Detail of some gorgeous tiles here. Isn’t it rather hypnotic?

One of the mosques inside the Kunya Ark. Note the tile covered minbar to the right.

Another view of the mosque with its tile covered walls. Arabesque or geometric, they were equally stunning

View of the harem at the Tash Khauli Palace, the main palace of the Khivan Khans. Constructed between 1830 and 1838, the Tash Khauli Palace consists of the harem, the mekhmonkhanas or reception rooms, and the arzkhonas or administrative rooms. Like all other structures, this too was plain on the outside and decorated with wall tiles on the inside.

A Swastika carved onto one of the many pillars in the Tash Khauli Palace. I was quite surprised to see the swastika, and more so at its liberal use as a decorative element. It is only when Inessa, my guide, explained that this symbol was of Zoroastrian origin and considered auspicious that it made sense. The Khivans may have been Muslims, but had not given up entirely on their former religion — Zoroastrianism.

Another Swastika, this time on a door.

If the walls were sumptuously tiled, the ceilings were not left plain either. The wooden ceilings were lavishly painted and decorated too. While the designs are quite similar to the ceramic tiles, the colours used are different — very oriental and perhaps influenced by trade links with China and Tibet.

The Djuma or Friday Mosque is perhaps the oldest structure at the Itchan Kala and perhaps Khiva too. Believed to have been constructed in the 10th century CE, it is rather plain on the outside. but step inside the cool mosque and rows upon rows of wooden columns will stretch out before you. Not all columns are original for most have been replaced over the centuries. Only about 4 of the columns date back to the time the mosque was constructed. And yes, each column is different.

The majolica gravestone of Sheikh Seyid Allauddin, a sufi mystic from the Nakshbandi order. The mausoleum is among the older constructions in the Itchan Kala and dates back to the early decades of the 14th century CE. You can see that the gravestone has inscriptions as well as arabesque and geometrical patterns. What you cannot see in the photographs is that this is a relief structure and has a 3D effect while viewing it.

The grave of Mahmoud Pakhlavan (1247-1326) — poet, mystic, traveler and wrestler. He apparently wrestled his way up to the Multan region, where he lost and had to serve the king. The story goes that he saved the life of the king and was granted freedom and send back to Khiva with a 1000 strong contingent of Multanis who accompanied him and settled down in Khiva. Their descendants are still supposed to live in Khiva. The Mausoleum was constructed in the early parts of the 20th century.

Tiled ceiling in the Mausoleum of Mahmoud Pakhlavan

A panoramic view of some major structures at the Itchan Kala. From Left to Right: The Djuma minaret just makes it into the frame, The blue dome of the Mausoleum of Mahmoud Pakhlawan and the unmistakable Islom Hodja Minaret

The crenulated walls of the Itchan Kala meanders away from the viewer

A pensive Al-Beruni. Wondering if he was thinking about the enigma that was/is India !

The guided walk with Inessa lasted till mid-afternoon, after which I went for a leisurely stroll around Itchan Kala once again. I revisited some of the monuments I had liked, went back to others to photograph them in better light and also went to places that were not part of the guided tour, like an embroidery workshop. I also climbed up to the Itchan Kala wall to watch sunset and get a panoramic view of the town.

Along the way, I got glimpses into the daily life of the locals, stumbled across a wedding photo shoot, interacted with India-loving Khivans, got invited for tea, bought souvenirs… Generally, I had a lot of fun on a very, very nice day. 🙂

Presenting some captures from that relaxed walk in Itchan Kala. Clicking on any of the photographs below will open a slide show. You can then use the left or right arrow keys to navigate through the 9 photographs and their accompanying captions.

A photo shoot of newly weds outside the Islom Hodja Madrassah

Traditional embroidery in progress at the UNESCO-sponsored Suzanni Workshop

A souvenir shop selling musical instruments

A choy khona or a tea house as viewed from the walls of the Itchan Kala

Tiles, tiles and more tiles for sale at a souvenir shop

Paintings for sale !

This one didn’t have any signboard, so don’t know what it was. But it is kinda cute, isn’t it?

A place to relax and stretch your legs when one wants a break from exploring the Itchan Kala

“The Itchan Kala is mighty impressive, isn’t it?”… these clay dolls seem to say 🙂

I left Khiva for Bukhara the next day. And over the weeks and months that have passed   since that visit, I have thought about the various perceptions of travellers to Khiva. I can now agree with each of their descriptions of Khiva and add a couple of my own to it — a living fortress, a fort museum, a museum city, lifeless and artificial, a film set, a somewhere else place, over renovated and restored, lifeless, touristy… For me the one word description that best fits Khiva is surreal.

It is also picture postcard perfect. Add to the fact, that locals don’t live there and it seems to exist only for tourists. But what makes it most surreal for me is that it is such a perfect slice of the past, though rather aggressively preserved.

But I’m not complaining, for whatever the reason and however much surreal Khiva and the Itchan Kala may feel to me, it is undoubtedly a jewel and a unique city. A must see for sure.

My Dream Trip Uzbekistan Series:
Dear Uzbekistan | A city called Nukus | Art in the Desert: The Savitsky Collection at Nukus | Mizdahkan: A city for the dead | 3 forts & a dakhma | Itchan Kala of Khiva | There’s something about Bukhara! | Monumental Bukhara | The Jewish Heritage of Bukhara | Shakhrisabz: The home town of Amir Timur | The Registan Square of Samarqand | The blue city of Samarqand | The silk paper factory at Konigil | The surprise & delight that was Tashkent | Uzbekistan: The food & markets special | The Uzbekistan trip planner |

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