The Narendra Bhawan experience

At first glance, the red sandstone structure that is Narendra Bhawan Bikaner doesn’t stand out or give any indication to the luxury boutique hotel that it claims to be. In fact, it looks more like a haveli or mansion of a merchant rather than the one-time residence or palace of Narendra Singhji, the former king of Bikaner.

Once past the rather modest entrance gates, you will cross a small courtyard covered with paving made from the same deep red sandstone, that Narendra Bhawan is constructed from — the local building stone. You will then pass through an arched entrance and climb up a few steps clad with golden yellow Jaisalmeri stone. And that’s when the change happens !

The floor tiles change to colourful vintage tiles. Carefully curated artefacts fill your sight, and deep and luxurious furniture beckon you to sit down and take it all in… But, wait for there is more to see and explore. You pass through a door and enter the very bold and beautiful foyer where large black and white tiles create a chequered floor pattern. Glass cabinets with the most interesting curios twinkle in the light reflected from the art deco lamps on the ceiling. At one end of the long foyer is a bright red piano…

You look around in wonder and accept the welcome drink offered to you by the ever smiling and friendly staff of the hotel and let it all sink in. This is how my Narendra Bhawan Experience began.

I was part of a group of travel bloggers and writers who were hosted by Narendra Bhawan in February 2018. We were taken around Bikaner, introduced to Bikaneri art forms and artists and of course, explore all that the hotel had to offer. Since I had visited Bikaner in 2013, I was quite happy to stay put in the hotel and explore it as well as the various art forms it displayed. Not that I didn’t explore the city (the next post on the blog will be all about that), but Narendra Bhawan was just as interesting, if not more, than the city.

Come along with me as I get you to experience Narendra Bhawan as I did, albeit through photographs. Do click on the first picture and then use the right arrow keys to see the others. Once you’ve seen this set, do come back to read the rest of the post and see the next set.

Front facade of Narendra Bhawan Bikaner

The arched entryway to the porch

The entrance porch

The breakfast area in the courtyard

Looking out from the porch into the courtyard

This stunning table decoration is what greets you when you step into the porch

The bold and beautiful foyer. One just needs to stand and take in all the design elements one by one though the eye is drawn towards the red piano first !

The RED piano. The showstopper in every possible way

A beaded curtain /screen adds mystery to what lies beyond the barely discernible red piano

One of the corridors at Narendra Bhawan

My room at Narendra Bhawan 🙂

Rooftop pool at Narendra Bhawan

The rooftop pool of Narendra Bhawan at night

All lit up. Narendra Bhawan at night

Narendra Singhji was an animal lover and lived with more than 50 dogs and cows at his residence. He reportedly knew every animal in his household by name and would eat only after every dog and cow had been fed. He donated a large parcel of land to set up a veterinary college cum hospital. Narendra Bhawan has paid a beautiful ode to this quality of his by putting up photographs and curios of dogs all over the hotel — bookends, garden ornaments, photographs, and metal and porcelain sculptures.

Do click on the first picture and then use the right arrow keys to see the others. Once you’ve seen this set, do come back to read the rest of the post and see the next set.

Narendra Singhji with one of his dogs

The artefacts at Narendra Bhawan and the various design elements complement each other beautifully. Some are so subtle that one blink and you’ll miss it, while others are large and over the top statements. Either way they all belong there — whether it is art deco furniture and decor elements or 19th century porcelain ornaments or antique musical instruments and bronze icons, or vintage vases, or framed prints and silver hair brushes or enamel snuff boxes… Somehow all this shouldn’t go together and stand out as disparate elements, but they don’t. Oh, and there are books everywhere — carelessly stacked or carefully shelved there are books of all kinds and for everyone.

Do click on the first picture and then use the right arrow keys to see the others. Once you’ve seen this set, do come back to read the rest of the post and see the next set.

Art Deco design for the lights – classy and elegant

The startled porcelain cat. Could it be due to the presence of so many dogs at Narendra Bhawan? 😉

A soup tureen

A porcelain “Shalabhanjika”

Chivalry in porcelain

A bronze Hanuman

A quirky cushioned bench with animal legs !

A beautiful backlit lamp as part of the decor

A veena on a charpoy against a backdrop of oriental vases makes for an interesting setting on the porch

The powder room at the ground floor has a collection of beautifully mounted silver hairbrushes as a prominent part of the decor

Chinese prints in the powder room

The entry porch has a huge framed collage of Benarasi weaves on either end.

Food is a big part of the Narendra Bhawan experience and hospitality. One can even call it death by eating or rather over-eating The variety of dishes, both local and otherwise was fantastic and lip smacking, but after a point it just got ovverwhelming. For the sake of public service and memories of my stomach protesting, I’m going to share just two experiences here — the fruit platter at breakfast (which was a work of art in itself) and the brilliantly curated and conceptualised Literary Meal. I cherish both experiences deeply and will never ever forget them.

It was on the last day of my stay at Narendra Bhawan that the aesthetics and design elements of of this lovely hotel fell into place. I had gone for a walk in the morning and as I entered the gate and passed through the various sections everything clicked and fell into place. Before I explain, let me quote this line from the hotel’s website:

A grand residence, Narendra Bhawan Bikaner is composed of Narendra Singhji’s memories from his travels to destinations near and far.

In other words, Narendra Bhawan is a tribute to the many experiences of Narendra Singhji and the influence of various places on him at various times of his life. And yet it remains deeply rooted to the local, which is Bikaner and Rajasthan, the state where the city is located. The transition from the local (red standstone) to the regional (yellow Jaisalmer stone) to the international (vintage Portuguese tiles and South east Asian ceramics and Art Deco, etc.). Narendra Bhawan is a tribute to the man, the king, who retained his local roots in spite of the many influences and experiences he had.

I leave you with this video I shot on my second morning at Narendra Bhawan as I waited for breakfast. Indian bird song and some soulful international jazz — can there be a better combination?

PS: Please look out for the next post on the blog where the Narendra Bhawan experience continues as I explore the havelis, markets and more of Bikaner.

Disclaimer: I was invited by Narendra Bhawan to visit and experience their hospitality and this rather belated post is an outcome of stay there. Needless to stay, the views and words are all mine.

More Posts from Bikaner: Forts of Rajasthan – 1: The Junagarh Fort of Bikaner |There’s something about camels ! | The Jain Temples of Rajasthan: Bhandasar, Jaisalmer, Lodhrava & Ranakpur | Bikaner revisited: Something old, something new |

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