“Sorry, Madam. You won’t be able to walk along the ghats of Varanasi. It was raining till yesterday and the walking path is under the Ganga waters. It will take about 2-3 weeks for the water levels to go down and for the silt to settle. Then the ghats and the path will be cleaned and only then will you be able to walk along the ghats,” the hotel manager said apologetically. Seeing the crest-fallen look on my face, he hastened to add, “But you can always see the ghats by boat, Madam. You will get a better view anyway.”
I had come to Varanasi with only two pre-decided activities—the Ganga Aarti and a walk along the ghats. And now, with the rain playing spoilsport, I wasn’t going to give the opportunity to experience life on the ghats of Varanasi; I only modified the mode.
There are reportedly 84 ghats in Varanasi, though some estimates put it at 100. Two of the ghats are cremation ghats, while the others are bathing ghats. Since my hotel was located somewhere in the centre of these 84 (or 100) ghats, I saw the Southern side ghats on Dussera day on my way to Ramnagar Fort, and the ghats on the Northern side the next day.
The ghats come in all shapes and sizes, as well as state of repair or disrepair. But one thing that is common to all is that each one is interesting either mythologically or architecturally or historically. See for yourself, a sampling of the different ghats, presented in the direction of the Ganga’s flow that is, from South to the North.
Hindus consider the Ganga to be the holiest of all the rivers in India and Varanasi the holiest of all cities. The reason is that at Varanasi the Ganga is uttarabhimukhi, i.e. it flows from South to North, as against the usual West to East, or North to South, or the less common East to West. Bathing in the Ganga in Varanasi is considered to wash away one’s sins, and for this is where the ghats, which literally means steps, are pretty useful.
The boat rides were fun and some of the scenes will remain imprinted in my memory for ever: the beautiful aarti at the Panchganga Ghat; the jharokhas of the building at Manmandir Ghat; the vivid colours of some of the buildings at the ghats, the burning ghats, the different names of the ghats, etc. Not only are the views of the ghats from the river side stunning, but the slow, rocking movement of the boat was oh-so-relaxing. Rajkumar, the boatman who took me on the tour of the Northern ghats of Varanasi, sang some beautiful, haunting melodies for me, songs he had learnt from his father, who (in turn) had learnt it from his father, and so on. On both days, the boatmen played guides and told me stories, legends and some absolutely outrageous (and libelous) stories about modern-day Varanasi politics and communal tension.
The ghats of Varanasi is truly a place where mythology, history and present day realities converge and is an experience that is not to be missed. Do take that walk along the ghats, but do also take a boat ride. It gives a very different perspective. 🙂
♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦
Related Posts
- By the Ganga in Varanasi
- Dussera in Varanasi
- The Ganga Aarti in Varanasi
- Getting lost in the alleys of Varanasi
My Favourite Things 
शुभ दीपावली,
LikeLike
Deepawali ki shubh kaamnaein, aapko bhi 🙂
LikeLike
आपने उस समय यहाँ का भ्रमण किया जन पानी पूरे उफ़ान पर था ये तिरछे वाला मंदिर भी आधा डूबा हुआ था।
LikeLike
I arrived in Varanasi on the day before Dussera and it had been raining quite heavily till a day or two before. Boat services had just resumed and I should consider myself lucky that I was able to see what I did. 🙂
LikeLike
So many ghats! Thanks for the pictures. Hope to visit these places some day!
LikeLike
There are 84 of them and I saw them all ! 🙂 I do hope that you get to visit this place too.
LikeLike
I am amazed by your stories wow 100 ghats & you visited them all.You are a TRAVELLER and you take us along in your journeys.The ghat pictures are so descriptive .Had a lovely trip of Varanasi.
LikeLike
I didnt visit them all, Arnavaz; I just passed by them in a boat. Now, if I were walking, then it would have been a different story.
LikeLike
Thank you so much for the virtual trip down the Ganga along the various ghats!!
LikeLike
You are welcome, magiceye. I had a great time seeing the ghats as well as writing about it. 🙂
LikeLike
🙂 🙂 aapne to humari bhi yatra karva di 🙂 🙂 nice narration as usual 🙂
LikeLike
Thanks, Sunita 🙂
Par yeh virtual yatra se kuchh nahin hoga. Aapko Varanasi ek din zaroor jaana chahiye 😀
LikeLike
oh ya I really hope .. I think these places are a sign of our rich culture and traditional heritage… I really should 🙂
LikeLike
beautiful pictures! 🙂
Happy Diwali
LikeLike
Thank you very much and a happy Diwali to you too 🙂
LikeLike
Amazing pictures and narration. Proud once again to be a part of this country!
LikeLike
I know what you mean. It was wonderful to see all those ghats and imagine them in the mythological, historical or present day settings.
LikeLike
Lovely pictures. They make me want to visit Varanasi.
LikeLike
Welcome here and thank you so much for stopping by and commenting. Varanasi is a must visit place and in spite of all the dust and the dirt and the garbage, it’s magical
LikeLike
lovely post! the ganga would have been a sight during the rains, right? we were there in may, so the water level was quite low, and we walked a lot along the ghats… the boat rides are def the best part of the city!
LikeLike
The water level was quite high and the boatman said that the water level had to go down by at least 10-12 feet before the walking path became visible. I was only able to walk from Chausatthi Ghat to the Dashashwamedh Ghat nearby, and that was tricky because of the silt. The boat ride was awesomeness personified and orth every rupee I paid. 🙂
LikeLike
Thank you for sharing your experience and some nice pics.
LikeLike