The trek to Dalhousie’s Cottage

“Would you like to visit Dalhousie’s Cottage?” asked Prithvi.

It was our tour group’s first evening at The Hotel Grand Shangri-La, Kalpa and we were having dinner. Prithvi, the Managing Director of the hotel, was offering suggestions with regard to places we could visit.

“Dalhousie? As in Lord Dalhousie?” I asked.

“Yes, the very same. His cottage is located about 8 km from here,” was Prithvi’s reply.

“But what was Lord Dalhousie doing here? I mean, he has a place named after him, Dalhousie, in another part of Himachal Pradesh, right? Or is this the Dalhousie you’re talking about? I’m a little confused now,” said someone from my group.

“Dalhousie, the place, is quite different from what I’m talking about. This is a cottage that Dalhousie built for his stay whenever he came to this region. Kalpa was his favourite hunting ground, you know,” Prithvi said.

“Hunting, as in, shikaar?” asked another person.

“Yes. Kalpa used to have a lot of wildlife, including snow leopards and Dalhousie was particularly fond of hunting them. He used to sail up the Sutlej and then set up camp in the area. The cottage was built later, when his wife came here. Local legends say that she had an incurable disease and was dying..”

“She must have had TB,” piped up another voice from our group.

“So, would you all like to visit Dalhousie’s cottage tomorrow? It is a nice level walk on winding roads and under beautiful trees… It is only after we cross Roghi village that the climb beginsย โ€” just the last 2 km, in fact. Those who cannot do the climb can stay back and rest in the village,” Prithvi said most persuasively.

Our group didn’t need much persuasion and there was a resounding yes from all of us and next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set off for the trek with Prithvi leading the way.

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
Walking past brightly painted hotels in Kalpa. The yellow one in the background is called “Hotel Apple Pie” !

It was a beautiful morning, cool and crisp with bright sunshine. The pace was leisurely and we had fun peering over the walls of the fruit orchards we passed by and look longingly at trees laden with apricots, peaches, pears and apples. We passed men and women off to work, children going to school, and a truckload of what looked like road repair workers. There was bird song in the air, no other tourists around, and all was well with the world. ๐Ÿ˜€

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
Apricots and walnuts drying on the roof of a house

Prithvi was a great guide and he shared local customs, traditions and practices with us. For example, while pointing out the pine nut trees at the edge of the village, he also shared information how the trees were a collective property and belonged to the women of the village. Money earned from the sale of pine nuts was divided equally amongst the women of the village and the men had no rights over that money.

He also pointed out local plants and trees and their uses in healing, building material; the difference between male and female deodar tees; etc.

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
The female deodar trees have these oovoid or egg-shaped cones
Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
While the cones of male trees are slender and finger-like

And when we passed an almost circular loop of the road, Prithvi pointed at the ground just below road level. That was the local cremation ground during winters. Bodies would be burnt on pyres there and when spring came, the snow melt would carry the ashes to the River Sutlej in the valley below. Here he explained how the Sutlej was most sacred to the people of Himachal, even more than the Ganga. The reason being that Sutlej originated from Mt. Kailash, the abode of Lord Shiva. As many a Himachali I met during the course of my trip said, “How can any river be more sacred than the Sutlej, which comes from the abode of Shiva?”

Soon I got totally immersed in my surroundings. Everything was new to me โ€” plants, trees and geology of the area. Every rock cutting had something new to see, rock structures and ferns and lichens to exclaim over in delight, and have some class from college suddenly become clear. Somewhere along the wayย my camera battery decided to die, without any warning. I was a little surprised as I had charged it the previous night. [Later on I came to know that high altitude can sometimes cause this to happen.] So, with the camera back inside my backpack, it was my phone camera that recorded the highlights of the remainder of the trek.

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
Unless you look closely, you cannot see the path we were walking on. It has been literally gouged out from the the hillside
Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
A closer view of the path we walked on
Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
A migmatite vein
Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
The village on a ridge: Panghi. Is this what they mean when they say, “living on the edge”?
Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
Every place has a touristy Suicide Point. And this is Kalpa’s. Photo: Doreen D’Sa

It was after we crossed Roghi, another charming little Himalayan village, that I got my first glimpse of the red-roofed structure of Dalhousie’s Cottage. What the photograph below doesn’t show is the steep and winding ascent to the cottage. More than half of my group dropped out when they saw the ‘target’ preferring instead to wait for us to return from the trek. What the photograph also does not show are the remnants of landslides and big boulders that blocked the path and made the climb challenging.

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
That little speck of red in the centre of the photo is Dalhousie’s Cottage

When I questioned Prithvi about them, he answered with deep sadness about how the 2013 Uttrakhand disaster had affected the Kinnaur region as well. While human lives were not lost, there was a lot of damage to property and many villages in the region had been cut off for days without any aid. It is only as I write this post that I realise that I have no photos of that portion of devastation. But at that time I was more concerned about climbing about not losing my balance or getting hurt and needed all the concentration I could muster to stay on course. Taking photographs was the last thing on my mind.

It was tough going for me and sooon, I was lagging behind the rest of my group. I huffed and puffed and finally made my way up to the cottage where some cold water and juice revived me, and brought my skin colour, which had turned an interesting shade of red, to normal.

Kalpa, Trek to Dalhousie's Cottage, Travel, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur
And I reach at last…

After a while, when I felt sufficiently recovered, I set off to explore Dalhousie’s Cottage, which I discovered was now a state government-run rest house / holiday cottage. But looking at the shabby condition of the cottage and its accessibility, I wondered whether people actually came to stay here. The cottage interiors, though beautiful, were in a worse condition. Shabbiness is one thing, but it was not very clean, even though the place had a caretaker. I wondered how anybody could even stay there !

We left after a while and though the descent was much easier and quicker, it was no less tricky. At Roghi village, our vehicles were waiting to take us back to the hotel for a late lunch and some free time till our evening excursion.

I loved the trek and enjoyed it at two levels. The first was hearing local stories and legends from a local person, and the second was on not giving up and completing the trek. In fact, I was felling quite pleased with myself, for while I can do any amount of level trekking and walking, climbs are a little difficult for me. So completing this 8 km trek made me feel very good about myself, gave me confidence, and in a way set the tone for the other treks to follow in the course of my Himachal trip. ๐Ÿ™‚

I searched in the hotel library for information on Dalhousie’s Cottage. But to my surprise, I found nothing on this topic in the library or on the net. Rather, what little I found was too sketchy to be even considered as a reliable source. While I don’t doubt the local legends and stories that surround Dalhousie’s Cottage, a little extra by way of documented history always makes writing a post like this that much more credible. Still… I hope you enjoyed reading this post as much as I loved writing it. ๐Ÿ™‚

18 thoughts on “The trek to Dalhousie’s Cottage

    1. I think poor accessibility is one reason that many people do not know about Dalhousie’s Cottage. Besides, Kalpa is not really in the tourist circuit like other places in Himachal are.

      As for the trek, the first 6 km was on level ground, so the distance really didn’t matter. Besides there were so many interesting things to hear and see. It was only the last 2 km that was tough for me, but I’m not one who gives up easily so yes, I did it. And it felt so good. ๐Ÿ™‚


  1. Must have been a wonderful trek Sudha. 8 km on hilly terrain is almost equivalent to double that distance on plain roads, so it is quite an achievement. ๐Ÿ™‚ I think because Kalpa itself is not on the popular tourist circuit, the places like this cottages are left in a neglected state. It should not be so, but that is the case for most of our country’s old buildings and monuments.
    On another note..I loved the picture of the migmatite vein. ๐Ÿ™‚


    1. Is it? I didn’t know that. I’m feeling even more good about myself now ๐Ÿ™‚

      India, Indians and heritage. One can write and crib and argue and blog and scream from the roof-tops and comment and reply and it will still not be enough, would it?

      I have a folder full of photographs of rock structures from the Himachal trip. I’ll share it with you sometime.


  2. Wow! That was some trek and a breath taking experience. Enjoyed reading your experience. Even though the cottage was shabby and ill-maintained, the walk towards it was exhilarating. The information on male and female pine trees was interesting and the photo on the migmatite vein.


    1. So good to see you here, Subhir ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you for stopping by and commenting.

      This was my first visit to the Himalayas and I have to agree with you. Though people say that I have visited the less scenic parts. Wonder how much better it can get.


  3. Wow! That must have between quite a trek! It’s a pity that we have never given enough importance to history, especially when it comes to documentation. It would have been so much more fun to know more about his life here. And at the risk of sounding repetitive, loved that migmatite vein ๐Ÿ™‚


    1. Yes, Anu. It was a lovely trek and in spite of my huffing and puffing, was great fun – lots of rocks, plants, stories… What more would someone like me want on a trip ๐Ÿ™‚

      The lack of documentation about Dalhousie in the area is puzzling, considering that at least the Brits would have left behind something. Wikipedia does not mention anything about him being in Kalpa, neither does the HP tourism website. As I said, while I do believe in the local story around his cottage, a written documentation would have helped.




    1. Welcome here, Indrajit, and thank you so much for stopping by and commenting. I look forward to the results of your research on information on Dalhousie’s Cottage. ๐Ÿ™‚


  5. Ah! So you have now trekked as well ๐Ÿ™‚ That reminder of the 2013 Uttarakhand disaster brought back memories. I was IN uttarakhand for a trek and was stranded at Srinagar for a few days at that time.


    1. Yes, I have now trekked in the Himalayas. An easy one, but a trek nevertheless. ๐Ÿ™‚

      This is not my first trek though, as I have trekked in the Western Ghats and Kachchh as a student of Geology. Though at that time it was called a field trip and our teachers would have frowned upon the term ‘trek’.

      It was only when I saw the remnants of the landslides at Roghi and Prithvi said that beyond those mountains is Uttrakhand, did I realise the magnitude of the hit and miss of the disaster in Kinnaur. I do remember your being stranded when the Uttarakhand Disaster struck and my apologies for bringing those memories back.


    1. Such is the fate of so many gems around us, Rachna. I wish to write about a well maintained and preserved slice of history for change. Not the well-known ones, mind you, something local.


  6. Good article but what I could gather from local sources and writers like SN Joshi, Retd IAS, Lord Dalhousie dis not build a new cottage but stayed in bungalow opposite Chini village which now house Tehsildar office and residence. It also has a tomb of English Captain Henry who died in 1845 and is burried within Tehsil bungalow.


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